#2128: Summary and listening notes.
Above photo: No. 2128 is standing on my slate plinth just prior to a listening session. The Zeta tonearm with Uwe bodied DL-103R MC cartridge are mounted. In this way I was able to compare this newly refurbished turntable against my own No. 2729. No. 2729 is a TD124 of similar (if a little bit later) vintage.
In sum this turntable has been fully disassembled and has had every bushing and shaft analyzed for wear. Where necessary, bushings and other parts have been replaced as follows:
Platter system
 | The main platter bearing housing has had new Oilite bronze bushings installed |
| The main bearing shaft has had its surface cleaned and polished to "like new" condition while maintaining close observation on its condition for size and form. |
| A new heavy gunmetal bearing cap and gasket kit |
| A new Delrin bearing thrust pad |
| A new 6mm ceramic SI-3NR Gr. 5 bearing ball from Boca Bearing takes the vertical thrust within the main platter bearing |
Outer Shell Platter:
| #2128 has an outer shell that is, overall, true-spinning and shows no evidence of impact damage. Its vertical run-out spins true. However its lateral run-out is another story. It could be said that in the lateral, the outer shell does spin concentric to its bearing overall but its outer rim has a wavy surface giving a kind of ripple effect as the platter spins. The effect isn't noticeable from any distance and has no effect whatever on quality of playback. Compared to other outer shells I've seen this one is certainly a keeper. I did make a few adjustments to the rim to reduce the amount of ripple but chose to leave well-enough alone as it now is. Clutch operation is good. |
| The rubber platter mat is still pliable and appears clean and un-weathered. |
Idler wheel:
| A new idler wheel from Mirko Djordjevic solves two problems in one purchase. 1) The hardened and cracked rubber of the original wheel is replaced with new compliant rubber. 2) The worn bushing of the original wheel is no longer a problem since the new wheel comes with a new bronze bushing. However the bushing isn't Oilite bronze. The owner will need to periodically oil the shaft about which the idler wheel spins. Add lube twice annually. (loose estimate) |
| The nylon vertical thrust bushing of the idler wheel has been retained with no damage evident. |
| It was necessary to adjust vertical position of the new idler wheel for correct engagement of the stepped pulley. This is evidently necessary due to a slightly different hub length of Mirko's idler wheel in comparison to the original. There was plenty of range to adjust this. |
Motor:
| Worn-out Oilite bronze motor bushings necessitated the design and manufacture of new replacement bushings made to my specification by a local tool maker. The material is Oilite bronze and the method was cnc lathe. The cost was significant but worth it. I will recoup my investment by selling some of these bushings to interested diy'ers. |
| A MK II double grommet conversion kit was purchased, also from Mirko Djordjevic. The grommet kit includes longer motor mounting posts and new rubber grommets. Installing the kit did require that the original "third post" be removed from the upper motor casing by drill press. |
Power Drive Train:
| The step pulley, its bushing, thrust ball and shaft were disassembled and evaluated for wear, found to be free of wear, cleaned, lubed and reassembled. |
| The eddy-brake pitch control assembly was disassembled, cleaned and reassembled complete. |
| The motor pulley and stepped pulley were cleaned of any traces of belt residue with alcohol and a soft cloth, then reassembled. |
| a new correct specification drive belt from Elex-atelier was installed. |
Switch and speed control:
| The entire wire harness was removed and reassembled as part of the E-50 motor rebuild. (not much to it) |
| The strobe lamp and its associated mounting bits, including mirror, were disassembled, cleaned and reassembled. |
| The 0.01 uF/250 volt capacitor/spark arrestor was replaced with a new one so that the speakers won't "pop" when you switch on/off the TD124. |
| The entire speed control mechanical linkages, cams and followers, steel ribbon and control knobs were removed, cleaned, lubed and reassembled. |
Cosmetics:
| One peeled-off voltage sticker was replaced with a replica manufactured here |
| The turntable could use a total paint strip-down and refinish but time and expense won't allow it. The overall cosmetics of the turntable do allow a few angles of view with beautiful aesthetics. |
Operating and Listening:
This is the interesting part. I was able to compare directly between my turntable, No. 2729 to this one. Both turntables are very early examples of the (Mk 1) TD124. However, there are mechanical differences between the two turntables. The subject of this article, #2128, has the Mk II double grommet motor mount kit installed. It is a significant upgrade for any MK 1 TD124. And it is standard equipment on the Mk II. # 2128 also has new motor bushings and fresh lube in its E50 motor. The turntable is mechanically tight, freshly lubed and adjusted all over.
My turntable, No. 2729 was refurbished 1-1/2 years ago and has a fresh platter bearing, and an identical heavy gunmetal end-cap with fresh delrin thrust pad..... but the 6mm bearing ball is hardened tool steel, not ceramic like in 2128. It also has the original E-50 motor bushings and a single grommet motor mounting as per Mk 1 configuration.
Both turntables have a fresh idler wheel from Mirko and are well lubed and adjusted. Both turntables are evaluated using the same tonearm and cartridge playing through the same chain of downstream components. The same cork/suede spacer mat is used on both turntables. Arm/cart vtf, overhang, zenith and vta are adjusted closely and unique to each turntable. Both turntables were situated in the heavy slate plinth.
Operating: Right off I notice that #2128 comes up to speed from cold in 5 - 10 minutes. That is an improvement over #2729. And it holds pitch rock steady all day. The switch control knob is smoother in operation, thanks to its clean, lube and adjust service on all of its linkages and appendages.
Sonics..... are different between the two turntables. #2128 is more detailed and sweeter sounding. Both turntables sound warm and dynamic, but #2128 has a cleaner, more pristine upper frequency. The turntable has an energetic dynamic component as well. This quality it shares with 2729 but perhaps it owns an ounce or two more dynamic urge. Pitch-wise 2128 is clearly very stable and seems excellent at reproducing classical and chamber music. However its strength is still in the category of jazz and rock where it exudes goodly helpings of boogie and slam.
So now I have to do what I did with 2128 to 2729. It will be well worth it. This is some pretty good vinyl spinning, I think.